Have you ever thought about visiting Muar? Muar is the fourth-largest city in the state of Johor and was declared a Royal Town by the Sultan of Johor. Known as Bandar Maharani, it is a historical town with many significant buildings and sites. However, what attracts us the most is its famous street food. Muar is undoubtedly one of the best places to satisfy your taste buds with its local delights if you're a food lover.
After staying in Melaka for three nights, we decided to drive to Muar, which takes less than an hour. We spent the night in Muar, sampling as many variations of local delicacies as possible. We walked around the small town between tastings and visited famous buildings and landmarks. Then, we hiked at Bukit Mor, the best mountain spot for locals to burn off some calories, before continuing our food adventure on Muar Glutton Street.
Driving down from Malaka to Muar only took slightly less than an hour. Since it was still early, we wanted to look for a place to have a light breakfast. So we headed to a store that specializes in coffee and made toast bread using a traditional woodfire, Kedai Kopi See Hoi - 世维茶室.
1. Kedai Kopi See Hoi - 世维茶室
Kedai Kopi See Hoi is unpretentious. It is primarily a wooden house with only six to seven tables. We ordered our coffee and toast, and the owner began by pouring boiling water into the cups to heat them. Then, he used a coffee bag to filter the coffee. I appreciate this traditional method because heating the cup helps the coffee stay warm for longer.
In between preparing the coffee, he placed thick slices of bread on a wire rack over some charcoal. The gentle fire beneath the wire rack created a slow grilling effect, making the bread crispy without burning. I admire his dedication, as he kept an eye on the bread and flipped it over occasionally to ensure even toasting. When I asked him why he did it this way, he explained that the smoke flavor from the charcoal seeped into the bread, making it much more fragrant.
The bread is then served with kaya and butter. It may not be anything extraordinary, but the key is that they do it well, with a lot of care and dedication. This unassuming stall is a great place to start your day with morning delights.
Address: 129-4, Jalan Temenggong Ahmad, Jalan Parit Perupok, 84000 Muar, Johor, Phone: 010-508 9913
2. Otak-otak Char Kuey Teow
After having our coffee, we tried the famous Otak-otak Char Kuey Teow with our stomachs half full. This noodle store is at the 333 Food Court in the Muar city center.
I'm sure everyone in Malaysia and Singapore is familiar with Char Kuey Teow, but what if it's fried with otak-otak? This store is located at the back of this food court on the right side. The gentleman who manages the store wore his signature chef hat, and I appreciate that he puts on a mask while frying. He used a large cast iron wok essential to generate wok aroma.
Of course, otak-otak is the primary ingredient. We also requested an additional egg on top and a few more otak-otak slices.
If you enjoy the flavor of otak-otak, I'm sure you'll love this dish. It has a unique taste, and compared to the Penang version, it is slightly wetter. This special dish is a must-try dish when you visit Muar.
Address: Jalan Ali, Pekan Muar, 84000 Muar, Johor Darul Ta'zim, Phone: +60 12-272 4298
Colorful Muar Town and the Murals
We strolled around the town slowly, taking time to digest our food. The area near Muar Glutton Street has numerous street food stalls and shops. Walking along Jalan Sisi, we noticed many murals on the walls, especially in the backlines. Here are some of the images we captured. Let’s discover Muar street art as we explore the town.
One significant feature of Muar town is the vibrant color of the buildings. The rows of shops are predominantly painted in striking colors, such as red, yellow, blue, and purple. These colorful buildings create a pleasant atmosphere and give me a tidied, neat feeling. They leave a lasting impression that defines Muar town for me.
3. Kedai Kopi Lu San 庐山
After that, we stopped by Muar Glutton Street to try a special mixed rice stall at Lu San. Since only two of us were there, we ordered just one portion to share.
We spoke to the owner when he had a moment. He mentioned that this shop has been in operation since 1950 and is now run by the third generation of his family. However, he expressed concerns about the future, as the younger generation may not be interested in continuing the business. Initially, the coffee shop sold Hainanese chicken chop, but it has since evolved to focus mainly on specialty mixed rice, which is precisely what attracted us.
The mixed rice here is so unique that you can’t find anything like it elsewhere. It features plain rice drenched in chicken curry and a rich braising liquid from the braised pork. In addition to the chicken curry and braised pork, the dish is topped with homemade spring rolls, stewed carrots, and cabbage. It also comes with sambal, which is flavorful and likely contains dried shrimp. As we dug in further, we discovered five-spice meat, which is locally known as “Goh Heang,” along with braised hard-boiled eggs, deep-fried tofu with fish paste stuffing, and preserved vegetables (梅菜).
In terms of taste, it is first class. It truly feels like home-cooked food elevated to the highest level. While you could cook each component at home, it would be senseless to cook all of them to serve just one rice platter. I highly recommend trying this rice, even if the interior of the coffee shop isn’t the most presentable. But the old and unpretentious setting does reflect its traditional roots and a rustic charm that feels like a time machine, transporting me back several decades to a bygone era.
In addition to the special rice, this shop also sells a wide variety of traditional Chinese biscuits. We bought some to bring back to Kuala Lumpur. Some of these biscuits were enjoyed by us when we were young but had long forgotten. We are thrilled to find them again here.
Address: 33, Jalan Haji Abu, Pekan Muar, 84000 Muar, Johor Darul Ta'zim
4. Kopi 434 Muar
After our lunch, it was pretty hot, so with full stomachs, we decided to check into our hotel and rest briefly before continuing our food hunt. Around 3.30 pm, the weather eventually cooled down, and a drizzle began to fall. However, this did not dampen our spirits as we set out to find good food.
We headed straight to Kopi 434 for afternoon tea. This well-known coffee shop has several branches in Johor, Selangor, and Melaka. The main branch we visited featured an elaborate collection of artifacts and decorations.
This coffee shop has been around since 1953 and was initially called Sai Kee Kopi. In the 1960s, regular customers began ordering coffee over the phone. Interestingly, since the last three digits of their phone number were 434, the locals started referring to this place as Kopi 434.
Naturally, we had to try the coffee. According to the menu, two distinct types of coffee are available: one made from Robusta beans and the other from Liberica beans. We ordered both, and I could immediately notice the difference. I preferred the Liberica beans because they were more aromatic and less bitter.
We also ordered local delicacies, including grilled and steamed otak-otak and mee siput (snail noodles). The mee siput is a crispy, deep-fried noodle disc shaped like a snail. Its flavor largely depends on the accompanying sambal. I do not like this noodle, as it lacks taste and relies on the sambal for flavor. However, I still recommend giving it a try. You will enjoy it, especially if the sambal is of good quality.
Address: 121, Jalan Maharani, Taman Sri Emas, 84000 Muar, Johor Darul Ta'zim, Phone: +60 6-951 3046
Landmarks in Muar
Since Kopi 434 is at the center of town, we decided to walk around and visit some of the famous landmarks. The most significant one is undoubtedly the Sultan Ismail Bridge, which spans over the Muar River. This bridge is a vital transportation link between Muar and the surrounding regions. It features a beautiful design and was officially opened in 2015.
Like many historical towns in Malaysia, Muar has its clock tower. Built in 1933 in the town center to commemorate the coronation of King George VI, it is one of the most recognizable landmarks in Muar.
Another significant structure is the Masjid Jamek Sultan Ibrahim, which was built in 1930 and is just next to the Muar River.
Not far away is Tanjung Emas Park, where we plan to try the rojak (a local fruit salad) at the Tanjung Emas food court.
5. Ah Lai Rojak
We visited this Rojak store after a recommendation from friends and because it’s popular online. Since it was fasting month, not many stores were open in this food court, and this was one of only two still operating around 6:00 p.m.
We decided to try the rojak, but it was a bit disappointing, likely because our expectations were too high. I prefer another rojak store we visited in a different town, Kampar, at Wings Cottage Restaurant (荣华阁), where the sauce had a more intense flavor and more ingredients.
Address: Medan Selera Sri Tanjong,, Taman Sri Tanjung, 84000 Muar, Johor Darul Ta'zim, Phone: +60 19-360 9618
6. Asam Pedas Pakcik Daud
We called Asam Pedas Pakcik Daud to check if they were open today. Usually, they only open during the day, but I hoped they would be open for Buka Puasa during Ramadan. A lady answered the phone and confirmed that they were indeed open. So, we headed to the store, which is claimed to be one of the best places for Asam Pedas in Muar. It took us about 25 minutes to arrive at Parit Jawa. The store is situated by the riverbank, lined with many fishing boats, with a beautiful sunset view.
Several other similar stores were nearby, but it was relatively quiet today. I suspect that many regular customers were unaware they were open at night.
For dinner, we ordered their Asam Pedas, a spicy and sour fish stew. The fish they used was a stingray (pari). I found the flavor to be well-balanced and enjoyable. The sourness comes from tamarind (asam jawa).
Since this was my first time trying this dish, I found it difficult to compare it with others. Overall, I liked the taste. Asam Pedas is a famous local delicacy, so if you visit Muar, try it!
Address: NO KNB 1/2/1 Kampung Nelayan Benteng, Parit Jawa, 84150 Parit Jawa, Johor Darul Ta'zim, Phone: +60 10-515 3837
Hiking at Bukit Mor
The following morning, we made arrangements for a hiking trip. This is certainly not the usual itinerary for people visiting Muar. Still, since both of us enjoy hiking, we thought it would be a good idea to burn off some calories before continuing our culinary journey.
We will write a separate article about our hiking experience at Bukit Mor. Meanwhile, let's continue our quest for the best food in the area.
After hiking, we're back to Muar Glutton Street for our last round of food before leaving Muar.
We found a seat at Yong Kee Coffee Shop and ordered food inside the shop. Many other stores are outside this coffee shop, and according to the owner, the food can be brought into the shop, but it has to be in a takeaway manner. After we finish eating, we have to remove it from the shop. We had no problem doing that, so besides ordering the drinks and Wan Tan Mee from the shop, we also ordered a few famous dishes from the store outside.
Note: The following food stores are inside or just outside Yong Kee Coffee Shop. Address: 80, Jalan Meriam, Pekan Muar, 84000 Muar, Johor Darul Ta'zim
7. Teochew Kuih 潮州粿
There is a store across the road that sells Teochew Kuih. We spoke to the owner, who mentioned this has been his family business for three generations. He offers various types of kuih, and we specifically purchased one savory and one sweet option. The savory kuih primarily consists of yam beans, possibly with some sesame seeds as the main ingredients, while the sweet kuih is made from glutinous rice flour and filled with mung bean paste.
My wife said it was excellent, and eventually, we returned to the store to pack more for our family in Kuala Lumpur.
8. Fried Oyster with Egg
The fried oyster from the store opposite the road is quite good. It has a fair amount of oil but is comparatively less than I have tried at other places, where the egg is drenched in a pool of oil. The egg is fried to perfection, meaning it is very crispy on the outside while still being soft on the inside. The flavor is well-balanced—not too salty—and plenty of oysters make it an excellent value for money. Overall, it is a delightful and satisfying dish.
9. Ah Choy Wan Tan Mee
This is a well-known Wan Tan Mee store, but it did not meet my expectations. The noodles were not the springy type typically found in Hong Kong; instead, they were a bit chewy, which is more common in Malaysia. The wontons contained only meat, whilst most I try at other places contain some prawns. The Char Siu was relatively lean. I enjoy lean meat, so I didn’t mind this, although other places usually serve Char Siu with some fat. Overall, I would say this is a matter of personal preference. I would rate it as moderately good but not exceptional.
10. Fish Slices Noodles
This store is located across the road from the coffee shop. The fish slices soup noodles are served with Mee Hoon. In addition to the freshly sliced fish, the soup also includes some salted vegetables. The fish slices are very fresh.
11. Fu Qi Otak-otak Muar
Lastly, we ordered otak-otak again! There are two versions: one with fish and the other with shrimp. Both are equally delicious.
These are all the foods we tried during our two-day trip to Muar. We covered most of the specialties, but Mee Bandung was the dish we missed. When we revisit Muar, we will stop by a restaurant famous for Mee Bandung.
Is Muar worth visiting? Yes, especially if you enjoy trying different and unique food in Muar. Some of the food here is locally exclusive, and others are among the best food in Malaysia. However, apart from a few historical buildings, there aren't many tourist attractions. Therefore, visit Malacca instead if you want to explore various tourist sites. Since the distance from Malacca to Muar is less than an hour, it's worth a trip to experience the distinctive food in Muar after visiting Melaka.
🎞️ Watch the video of our food-hunting trip in Muar
Please watch the video we made for our trip to Muar. As below:
