My impression of Kedah has always been vague. When I was a child, my teacher often told us that Kedah is the ‘rice bowl ' of Malaysia. But I had never actually visited the state after growing up. This time, I came to Alor Setar, the capital of Kedah, filled with both excitement and curiosity. How would the image I held in my mind since childhood compare with the reality?
My one-week journey is just beginning. I invite you to join me in exploring Kedah together and discover the vibrant and authentic side of this beautiful state.
Below are all the places we explored in Kedah, focus on the capital, Alor Setar, and the surrounding areas. We’ve also tried many foods and restaurants during the trip, which we publish as a separate post.
List of Places We Visited in Alor Setar and Its Surroundings
Please click on the names of the places below to jump to their respective sections.
- Alor Setar city tour
- Muzium Padi Negeri Kedah
- Rumah Kelahiran Mahathir Mohamad
- Menara Alor Setar
- Rumah Merdeka
- Bukit Jerai
- Bujang Valley
- Waterfall Seri Perigi
- Pantai Merdeka
- Galleri Tsunami
- Sungai Petani Tower
- Cheng Huang Temple Sg. Petani
- Food in Kedah
1. Alor Setar city tour
We walked to the city center, as it was only a ten-minute walk from our hotel. Among all the buildings, the mosque stood out as particularly prominent. Opposite the mosque is the City Square, where the clock tower and High Court are located. It’s an open space that serves as a gathering place for public events and celebrations. As I continued further, I came across an art gallery, and not far from there is a royal museum, which we also visited. Below are some of the photos we took during our walk.
Masjid Zahir
Just a five-minute walk from our hotel brought us to the famous Masjid Zahir (Zahir Mosque). The mosque sits at a junction, directly opposite Alor Setar Square. Its architecture is striking, which is painted mainly in black and white, a combination that gives it a distinctive and elegant appearance. According to the information displayed in front of the mosque, it was built in 1912 and officially opened in 1915 by the Sultan of Kedah.
We then crossed the main road into Dataran Alor Setar, where all the following buildings, galleries, and museums are located.
Clock Tower and Nobat Hall
The Big Clock Building (Bangunan Jam Besar) is located directly opposite the mosque. In the past, it played an important role in signaling prayer times to the nearby mosque. When the clock struck the hour for prayer, it would prompt the beating of gongs from the Nobat Hall (Balai Nobat) next to it, followed by the mosque’s call to prayer. The building was constructed around the same time as the mosque. Its walls are ornately and finely carved, and a crescent moon sits atop the dome.
The High Court Building
The High Court Building (Bangunan Mahkamah Tinggi) was completed in 1922. Its design reflects classical Roman architecture, with closely spaced pillars that line the front of the building. The roof bears the emblem of the state of Kedah.
Kedah Royal Museum
The Royal Museum, originally known as the Kota Setar Palace, houses a collection of artifacts and memorabilia belonging to the Sultan of Kedah. Malaysia’s first Prime Minister, Tunku Abdul Rahman, lived and grew up in this palace. It was officially declared the Royal Museum in 1983.
The Kedah State Art Gallery
At the far end of the square is the art gallery. The Kedah State Art Gallery is one of the oldest modern government buildings in Alor Setar. It houses a collection of paintings, photographs, musical instruments, and handicrafts of Kedah. Originally built in 1893 as a High Court, the building was later converted into an art gallery in 1983. It is free to enter. During our visit, there was an exhibition of student artwork centered on themes such as environmental cleanliness, the dangers of plastic, and ocean pollution.
It took us about two hours to complete the walk around Alor Setar Square, as we only made brief stops at the museums because we had other places to visit. However, if you’re interested in exploring the history, culture, and background of the royal family in more depth, you could easily spend the entire day here. The best time to visit the city is either in the morning or late afternoon, when it’s not scorching hot. Fortunately, all the museums and the art gallery are air-conditioned.
2. Muzium Padi Negeri Kedah
The Paddy Museum of Kedah (Kedah Paddy Museum) is by far the most entertaining museum we’ve visited recently. Unlike other museums that focus on history and culture, this one is devoted to a single subject: paddy.
We were excited and eager to experience the 3D show in the cinema, which offers a 360-degree view of the entire paddy planting process. It is located on the top floor, which we need to reach by climbing a spiral staircase.
We sat in the rotating seating area at the center, which is much like a revolving restaurant at the top of a tall building. The screen slowly rotates around us, creating the sensation of watching a real landscape outside. The screen quality is so sharp that I believe few people would realize it's not real when watching the video or looking at the photos I've taken.
There is also a diorama between the screen and the rotating seating area, which makes the scene even more realistic. The diorama and the screen blend so seamlessly that I tried to find the joining line but failed completely.
I used my GoPro to create a time-lapse of the entire show, which took about 25 minutes to complete a full rotation and come to an end. The time-lapse is included in the video I uploaded to YouTube about places to visit in Perlis. Please click here to watch it.
On the same floor as the ticket counter, there are various exhibits showcasing the process of rice cultivation, along with the traditional tools used. There is also a souvenir shop.
3. The birthplace of Dato' Seri Dr. Mahathir bin Mohammad
This is the place where Malaysia’s former Prime Minister, Dr. Mahathir Mohamad, was born.. The house has been preserved and turned into a tourist attraction. Admission is free of charge.
The one-room wooden house originally belonged to his father, Mohammad bin Iskandar. Dr. Mahathir was born here and lived in this house until he became a government officer and moved into government quarters.
The inside of the house features personal belongings and other items related to Dr. Mahathir’s early life, from his birth until his marriage. Many of these exhibits were contributed by relatives and close friends. We walked around the dining room, his study (which also served as his sister's room), and his bedroom. Part of the original kitchen furniture is still there, although some kitchen items have been removed and replaced with exhibition displays.
Just opposite his house, there are two more places worth visiting. The first is called Rumah Bujang, which showcases exhibits about Dr. Mahathir’s political journey from his early involvement in voluntary and political organizations to his rise as Prime Minister.
The second building, located next to it, is called Bumbung Lima. This exhibition highlights his academic and professional development, including his medical training and career as a doctor. It also features his writings, which have had a significant influence on the Malaysian public.
4. Alor Setar Tower
The Alor Setar Tower is located right in the center of town and is the most iconic symbol of the city. So we went over to visit and made our way up to the top observation deck to enjoy a panoramic view of Alor Setar. It is a telecommunications tower, standing at 165.5 meters (543 feet), making it the third-tallest tower in Malaysia.
The staff led us to a lift that took us up to TH03 (Megaview floor), located at 88 meters (289 feet). From there, we took another lift to reach TH04 (Starview floor) at 105 meters (344 feet), which is an open-air, 360-degree observation area.
Because Alor Setar is a relatively flat town without many hills or mountains, the view stretches to the horizon in every direction. It was a bit of a pity that the evening was slightly cloudy. Otherwise, this would have been one of the best spots to witness the sunset.
The unobstructed view allowed us to see the busiest parts of Alor Setar, including some of the landmarks we had already visited, such as Alor Setar Square and the mosque. We could also see far into the distance, where patches of paddy fields spread out toward the horizon.
There is another observation deck (Megaview floor) on the third level, but the view is limited to what you can see through the glass panels.
On the fourth level, there is a rotating restaurant, but at the moment, it is only open for private functions.
5. Rumah Merdeka
Earlier, we visited the former home of one of Malaysia’s Prime Ministers. This time, we explored another historic residence called Rumah Merdeka (Independence House). It was the official residence of Malaysia’s first Prime Minister, Tunku Abdul Rahman. This is the very house where he lived and worked, especially during the crucial years when the country was fighting for independence.
If you observe the house closely, you’ll notice that the upper floor is the original wooden structure, while the lower section was reconstructed using bricks. Today, the house has been converted into a mini museum, which is open to the public free of charge.
Inside, the exhibits highlight key historical events during Tunku Abdul Rahman’s tenure as Prime Minister. We also saw the displays of his personal belongings, the desk where he worked, and photographs from his younger years.
Outside the house, there’s even a small area that marks his favorite relaxation spot by the nearby river.
6. Bukit Jerai
Bukit Jerai is just a little over an hour’s drive from Alor Setar. When we reached the top of the hill at the resort, it was drizzling. After a short wait, we received our room key at 3 p.m. and checked into our hotel room.
The accommodations are housed in tastefully designed bungalows, all arranged around a central open-air space with a swimming pool, a children’s playground, and comfortable seating areas. In the afternoon, the resort became quite lively, as outside visitors are allowed to enter for a fee..
It’s an ideal place to relax and do absolutely nothing. But for those looking for light activities, there are a few nearby spots to explore. That afternoon, I visited several of them.
First, we stopped by the Strawberry Park just opposite our room. Then we headed to the Jungle Coffee Shop, a cozy little spot with outdoor seating that faces the jungle. The atmosphere was peaceful and refreshing, perfect for an afternoon break.
After that, I took a walk along the jungle trail leading to Telaga Tok Sheikh, a historical well built in remembrance of a prominent Muslim preacher from the past.
Continuing on, I walked a few more minutes to a rock formation known as Batu Kapal. True to its name, it's a flat rock that resembles a ship and is located next to a small stream. It’s about the size of a basketball court. Lastly, we made our way to Alur Naga Waterfall.
Back at the resort, we went to the sunset viewpoint, hoping to catch a glimpse of the golden hour. Unfortunately, thick clouds rolled in and completely obscured the view. Instead of a sunset, we found ourselves surrounded by a serene sea of clouds.
It was a peaceful and rejuvenating retreat at Jerai Hill Resort. Sitting at about 1,000 meters above sea level, the air was crisp and fresh, with temperatures hovering around 22°C.
This is just a summary of our time at Bukit Jerai. We’ll be writing a separate article with more in-depth details about the activities we enjoyed and the places we visited while staying at the hill resort.
7. Bujang Valley Archaeological Museum
Bujang Valley Archaeological Museum is at Bukit Batu Pahat, which offers insights into the early civilization of this region, dating from the 3rd to the 12th century CE.
It took us about half an hour to drive to Merbok, where the museum is located. Officially opened in 1980, the museum has two galleries.
Gallery 1 is housed in the main building and exhibits collections unearthed from archaeological sites, including ceramic shards, yoni, and lingga found at a Hindu site. We also saw a terracotta bracelet found at a Buddhist site, likely used as a pillar base. There are sculptures as well, which were probably used as objects of worship in Hindu and Buddhist shrines. This shows that Hinduism and Buddhism have had a presence in this area for a long time.
Gallery 2 is located in a separate building behind the Archaeology Gallery. It focuses on the trade history of the Bujang Valley. It highlights the valley’s role as a maritime trade hub connecting India, China, the Middle East, and the Malay Archipelago. During that period, the locals traded with foreigners for forest products and marine resources such as turtle shells and pearls, as well as minerals like gold, silver, and spices.
The most impressive part of the museum, however, is the outdoor exhibition. Scattered across the grounds are numerous reconstructed temple ruins, mainly Indian-style structures, along with various stone artifacts. One example is a traditional sugarcane juicer, now on display.
A short walk up a small hill leads to the temples, or candi. These temples were originally found in this region. After excavation by the museum department, most of them were reconstructed and relocated to the museum site for display. These ruins show that the Bujang Valley was home to one of the earliest civilizations in Southeast Asia, predating many other ancient sites in the region.
8. Seri Perigi Waterfall
With so many waterfalls in the area near Jerai Hill, we chose to visit the Sri Perigi Waterfall amid a misty morning and intermittent rain. The waterfall is about five kilometers from the small town called Yan.
It’s very accessible, as it’s located right by the roadside. We parked our car at the designated parking area, where the lower cascade is just next to it. There’s a shallow pool where children were playing under the watchful eyes of their parents. The water is very clean, though slightly brownish due to a high concentration of certain minerals.
A 30-minute hike can access the upper tier, but we weren’t planning to do any hiking this time.
We met two friendly policewomen who were patrolling the area. They were very friendly and delighted to meet us from Kuala Lumpur. They even agreed to take a wefie with us! They shared that despite the shallow water, there had been a sudden surge a few years ago that caused falling rocks and destroyed a few bridges in 2021.
9. Pantai Merdeka
Pantai Merdeka is a beach located in Kota Kuala Muda. It’s slightly off the main road, and it took us about 45 minutes to get there from Alor Setar. There is a paid car park whcih accept Touch ’n Go payment.
It was about to rain and quite windy when we arrived. Despite that, there were still many visitors, especially Muslim families dressed in their traditional attire, as today is Hari Raya Aidiladha.
The waves were strong, and the sky was filled with drifting black clouds. Still, it only drizzled lightly and never turned into a storm.
A promenade runs along the shore, which has been reinforced with a paved embankment. There’s also a children’s playground and a large food court. There are also swings and benches along the seafront.
The beach faces west and has an open, unobstructed view, making it an ideal spot to watch the sunset. Unfortunately, today wasn’t the best time to wait for or take sunset photos due to the weather. Still, the strong winds and restless waves gave us a very different kind of seaside experience and feeling.
As the clouds began to gather, we decided to leave early and head to our next destination: the Tsunami Gallery (Galleri Tsunami) in Kota Kuala Muda.
10. Galleri Tsunami
Before we returned to Alor Setar, we took some time to visit the Tsunami Gallery at Kuala Kota Muda.
The Aceh tsunami in 2004 was completely unexpected by the residents of Kuala Kota Muda, who never imagined it would reach them, given that the epicenter was so far away.
On 26 December 2004, at around 8:58 a.m., an earthquake was detected in northern Indonesia. The tremor generated large waves that struck the north coastal areas of the states of Kedah, Perlis, and Penang. There are exhibitions inside the Tsunaei Gallery that primarily focus on the events of that tragic day, with informative panels, photographs, personal stories, and artifacts.
Outside the gallery are three rows of ruined houses that have been preserved as a sobering reminder of the tsunami’s devastating impact. The current place we parked our car was once a row of fishing village homes that were destroyed and swept away by the wave.
The worst-hit parts of Kuala Muda saw destruction as far as 1,000 meters from the shoreline. We stood at the place where the tsunami hit today in a calm, breezy, and peaceful afternoon. I can only try to imagine what it would have felt like to be there in person, with the water surging toward me like a towering wall crashing down. The images and replicas inside the gallery are so vivid, it almost feels as if I were there, experiencing it myself.
Next to the gallery is a tsunami memorial, built using 26 fishing boats that were damaged by the waves. Opposite of the road is Dataran Tsunami (Tsunami Square), a public space in commemoration of the 2004 disaster.
11. Sungai Petani Tower
After spending a night at Bukit Jerai, we slowly made our way south toward Kuala Lumpur, stopping for an overnight stay in Sungai Petani.
The town’s iconic clock tower, located on Jalan Ibrahim, was completed in 1936 to commemorate the Silver Jubilee of King George V and Queen Mary. It has since become a symbol of Sungai Petani, reflecting the town’s colonial past while also as an iconic landmark for both locals and visitors. It is one of the most popular spots in town for travel photos.
12. Cheng Huang Temple Sg. Petani 十殿城隍庙
Our decision to visit this temple was a last-minute one while we were in Sungai Petani. We had a bit of extra time before heading back to Kuala Lumpur and knew the temple was quite large, so we wanted to see how it might differ from others we’d visited.
It was late morning when we arrived at the temple, which had a large parking lot in front. Our first impression was that it featured elaborate architecture with an authentic Chinese temple design.
Two unicorns guard the entrance of the temple, and upon entering the main shrine, we realized that it is a Taoist temple. There are various deities and gods associated with Taoism, and no Buddhist statues were present. The statues are all brightly painted and colorful, with many being life-sized or even larger. There were also traditional Chinese cultural elements, such as the Twenty-Four Filial Exemplars (二十四孝). The architectural style is classically Chinese, elaborate, and richly detailed.
We then walked to the open area where we saw a statue of the Laughing Buddha, which made us realize that the temple is not solely dedicated to Taoism.
Indeed, the extension behind the main shrine, while still under construction, is actually dedicated to Buddhism. The main feature is a statue of the three prominent Bodhisattvas, along with the recently completed hall of 500 Arhats. The sheer number and vibrancy of the statues make it stand out compared to many other temples I’ve visited.
13. Food in Kedah
Well, our eight-day trip to Perlis and Kedah has finally come to an end. This was our first time to explore places around Alor Setar and took day trips up to Perlis. Most of the attractions here are rooted in nature, which is peaceful, scenic, and untouched. The food is predominantly Malay cuisine, but since there is a large local Chinese community, we also found many Chinese food stalls serving delicious and authentic dishes.
We’ve also written a separate article specifically about the food we tried during our trip. Here are some highlights, and if you’d like to know more, please click here to read the full article.
- Noodles History 尹面之家. This restaurant specializes in noodles and Chinese barbecue pork, and it's one of the best we've tried so far.
- Hai Tao Ki Food court 海头街美食中心. It’s a humble Chinese food court that you’d likely only discover through local recommendations. All the stalls here are run by Chinese chefs who have been cooking the same dishes for many years.
- 新菜脯鱼 Restoran Chai Por Hu. These restaurants serve .the Kedah specialty called Preserved Pickled Fish. It’s an interesting and unique combination that you’re unlikely to find elsewhere.
- Ahmad Foo - Chicken Duck Rice Alor Setar. This Halal restaurant specializes in braised duck noodles, blending Chinese and Malay culinary styles in a unique and flavorful way. It’s a very interesting dish and highly recommended to try.
- Jerai Nanyang 早点有你咖啡铺. The success of this café began by accident, when the family decided to preserve their old village house by turning it into a café, operating just three days a week. It has since become one of the most popular and well-known cafés in Gurun.
Although we didn’t explore every place in depth, what we’ve seen and learned during this trip has left a lasting impression on us. We hope that our experiences can offer you some helpful insights if you plan to travel to Kedah in northern Malaysia in the future.
🎞️ Watch our video: Things to do in Alor Setar
Please watch our video Things to do in Alor Setar and the surroundings by clicking 👇👇the image below.
