This is the Everest Base Camp Trek Part 2 of our mini EBC series.
Here is the summary of Part 1.
In Part 1, we arrived in Kathmandu late at night and took an early morning flight to Lukla the next day, which made us a day ahead of schedule. From there, we began our trek through Phakding and onward to the bustling mountain town of Namche Bazaar, the gateway to Everest.
However, the weather soon turned against us; a full day of hiking in the rain was followed by another day of heavy snow, making our journey far more challenging than expected. By the time we reached Dingboche (4,410m), I was struck by acute mountain sickness (AMS). After much thought, I decided not to ascend further so as not to delay my teammates. Instead, I explored Pheriche, Khumjung, and Khunde, which gave me a deeper appreciation of Sherpa culture and life in the Himalayas.
📖 If you haven’t read Part 1, you can find it here.
If you’ve already read and watched Part 1, I invite you to continue with us, as we share our story from Day 7 onward, all the way to the base camp of the world’s highest mountain.
EBC Day 7 – Acclimatization Day at Dingboche
Nangkartshang Hill (5,083 m) (Teammates)
Today is our acclimatization day at Dingboche. Since I was hit by AMS yesterday, I decided to rest while my brother and Bernard continued the climb to Nangkartshang Hill (5,083 m).
They returned just before lunch and told me the entire hill was covered in a fresh blanket of snow, making the trail almost invisible. Luckily, a few early hikers had already gone up, so they could follow their footprints.
The climb was steeper and slipperier than yesterday, and Bernard even managed to accidentally slide down a short distance after slipping. 😂 The two of them decided not to push all the way to the top to save their energy for tomorrow’s real climb. Smart move!
Walk Around Dingboche (Me)
As for me, after some rest, I took a slow walk around Dingboche. Since most of the snow hadn’t been cleared and many trekkers were out hiking, the village felt quiet and peaceful, with very few shops open. I tried to find a pair of merino wool socks, but nothing really caught my eye.
Rest & Recovery (me)
By lunchtime, my appetite returned, and I happily tucked into fried noodles and a cup of masala tea. The weather turned out beautifully with clear skies and sunshine all day, so most trekkers took the opportunity to dry their soaked shoes, pants, and socks in the sun.
Nothing much happened for the rest of the day. Before dinner, I checked my vitals again. My SpO₂ improved from yesterday’s worrying 67 to 76, and my heart rate dropped to 91. Feeling much better now, and I’m hoping for a good night’s sleep tonight.
EBC Day 8 – Dingboche to Pheriche (Me), and Lobuche (Teammates)
Team Split
Today was the day our three-man team finally decided to split. I descended about 200m down to Pheriche, while Ka Kui and Bernard continued their ascent toward Lobuche.
Choosing not to continue to Everest Base Camp was a tough but rational decision. My SpO₂ level had improved from 67 to 76 after a day of rest, while Ka Kui maintained over 80, and Bernard had an impressive 91 at 4,440 m in Dingboche!
Although there was still a chance I could have pushed on, the risks outweighed the desire. AMS can strike suddenly at higher altitudes. So, for the next few days, I’ll share my experiences taking another path and update my teammates' upward push when we reunite during their descent.
From Dingboche through Thukla to Lobuche (Teammates)
After parting ways with me, my teammates began their toughest stretch yet, the climb from Dingboche to Thukla, and onward to Lobuche for the night.
This section was far from easy. Fresh, thick snow blanketed the entire trail, making it slippery and uneven, forcing them to tread carefully with each step. At times, the snow was so soft that their feet suddenly sank deep without warning.
By now, everything in sight, including the rooftops, rocks, and even the trail itself, was buried under snow. It was an unexpected winter wonderland during what was supposed to be the clear, dry autumn season.
The reflection of sunlight on the snow was so intense that without sunglasses, it became almost blinding. The strong UV rays even left both of them moderately sunburnt, an unexpected challenge at high altitude.
The wet, unstable surface and hidden ice holes made every step a struggle. They stopped for lunch at Thukla (4,620 m) before tackling the steep ascent to Thukla Pass, also known as the Everest Memorial, a deeply moving place dedicated to climbers and Sherpas who lost their lives on Everest and throughout the Khumbu region.
Most of the stone monuments and cairns at the memorial were half-buried under snow, so visibility was limited. After a brief, solemn stop, they pressed on toward Lobuche, arriving around 4 p.m. There was a total ascent of over 600 meters that day.
The tea house at Lobuche was very basic. The rooms have no attached toilets and are without water. It's a clear sign of how remote and rugged this final stretch of the journey truly was.
Short Hike to Pheriche (me)
We started the hike together for a short while before they took the upper trail, and Rohit (my porter) accompanied me on the lower trail to Pheriche.
The path was quiet and peaceful, as it’s not part of the main EBC route. I only met a few hikers and some locals along the way. The entire trail was blanketed in fresh snow, so it was essential to have someone experienced like Rohit leading the way.
The final descent into the village was quite tricky. It is a narrow, winding path with deep snow on both sides. Careful steps were needed to keep the balance. The weather, however, was perfect: clear blue skies and panoramic 360° views of the snowy mountains all around.
Best Accommodation So Far (me)
We reached the tea house before lunch, and since I was alone, I got to enjoy the entire room with an attached bathroom, a pure luxury at this stage of the trek! Even more impressive: carpeted floors! A rare treat in a remote mountain village.
In the afternoon, I took a slow one-hour walk around quiet Pheriche. Only a few hikers, locals, and yaks passed by.
The village was serene, surrounded by majestic snow-covered mountains. Standing there, I felt a deep sense of solitude, peace, and humility, as if nature had gently absorbed me into its rhythm.
Locals were busy shoveling snow and clearing doorways, preparing for the return of trekkers. Hopefully, Pheriche will soon be bustling again with hikers sharing stories and laughter.
Interestingly, before I came, the weather forecast predicted no snow. I had secretly wished to experience hiking in the snow… but seeing the damage and hazards caused by the recent storm, I regret that naïve thought.
Dinner was a comforting plate of Dal Bhat. Although meals are included in our tour package with Grande Adventure, drinking water has to be purchased separately.
Up here, boiling water is getting expensive, around NPR 500 per liter! At this altitude (4,200 m), water boils at around 86°C, so it needs at least 3 minutes of rolling boil to kill bacteria and viruses. I’m not entirely sure if the kitchen always does that, as they do use solar heaters and yak-dung heaters apart from gas.
So, to be safe, I use purification tablets as an extra precaution, as diarrhea is the second most common issue after AMS among trekkers.
EBC Day 9 – Mission Accomplished!
Today is the big day, the day my teammates were set to reach Everest Base Camp.
Descend from Pheriche to Deboche (me)
Since I wasn’t continuing upward, I descended from Pheriche to Deboche, dropping about 400m in elevation, now back below 4,000 m.
Almost immediately, I felt a huge difference in heart rate, breathing, and appetite, all improved, confirming that AMS was the real culprit, not physical fitness.
The descent itself was beautiful. I walked across untouched ice fields along the valley, with helicopters constantly flying overhead every few minutes. Since mountains on all sides surrounded me under a bright blue sky, I could literally point your camera blindly and still get a perfect shot!
It was fascinating to see how quickly the landscape changed. Thanks to the good weather since yesterday, the heavy snow has begun to melt.
At first, small rocks and muddy trails began to peek through, so I removed the crampons and followed the visible footprints. Gradually, the snow gave way to grassy and mossy terrain, and soon we reached Shomare, where we’d had lunch a few days ago.
From there, we slowly passed the tree line, and the scenery shifted dramatically in just three hours. There was vivid green vegetation surrounding me, the Imja Khola roared below, and in the distance, the mountains stood with a clear snow line separating white peaks from lush greenery below. Absolutely stunning.
I enjoyed a hearty lunch at Sherpa Café and Restaurant in Pangboche (3,898 m). My AMS symptoms were completely gone.
On the way down, I passed the massive fallen rock that had tumbled across the narrow cliff trail a few days ago. Luckily, no one was hurt. My porter told me it happened four days ago.
Arriving at Deboche (me)
I arrived at my hotel in the early afternoon, took a stroll around Deboche, but a drizzle sent me back to my room.
I ended up taking a short nap and writing this post… and then came the most anticipated update from Bernard’s Facebook. They made it! Ka Kui and Bernard have reached Everest Base Camp! So proud of them both!
Mission Accomplished! (Teammates)
This afternoon, Ka Kui and Bernard successfully reached Everest Base Camp (EBC)!
Huge respect to Ka Kui, my brother, at age 73, he’s a true inspiration and a shining example of a strong and determined Hong Kong senior trekker.
And kudos to Bernard, who proudly carried the Jalur Gemilang all the way to EBC, making Malaysia proud! Malaysia Boleh!
The Final Push to Everest Base Camp (teammates)
Ks Kui and Berard told me that they began the final leg of the long-awaited trek to Everest Base Camp from Lobuche in the morning.
Fresh snowfall had transformed the landscape once again. The scattered rocks and sandy sections were covered in a pristine layer of white. They stopped at Gorakshep, left their bags at the tea house, had a quick lunch, and continued their ascent for the final approach to EBC.
This section was crowded with fellow trekkers all sharing the same dream. Though the path wasn’t steep, the thin air made every step exhausting. Huge boulders, which were partially buried in snow, added to the challenge. The ice was so slippery that they slipped and fell several times, despite wearing crampons.
And then, they arrived. Standing before the Everest Base Camp Rock, surrounded by ice and glory, they felt an overwhelming sense of joy and accomplishment.
There was a queue of trekkers waiting for their turn to take that iconic photo at the EBC Rock, proof that they had made it after days of relentless hiking.
My brother Ka Kui finally realized his dream. Standing tall, his eyes gleaming with pride behind his reflective sunglasses. He truly embodies the spirit of perseverance, an inspiring example of a senior hiker from Hong Kong who never gave up.
Meanwhile, Bernard proudly unfurled the Jalur Gemilang, standing on top of the EBC Rock.
Their smiles said it all: mission accomplished.
They returned to Gorakshep for the night, content and fulfilled. The next morning, they decided to skip the optional climb to Kala Patthar. After all, they had achieved what they came for, reaching Everest Base Camp itself.
This marks the end of our Everest Base Camp trek Part 2. We’ll be adding links to the remaining parts once they’re published. Stay tuned!
🎞️ Watch our video: Everest Base Camp Trek Part 2
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