Chimi Lhakhang in Bhutan: the Famous Fertility Temple in Punakha

During our trip to Bhutan, we took a day trip from Punakha Valley to visit Chimi Lhakhang, a small temple famously known as the “Fertility Temple.” Both locals and travelers visit this temple, especially couples hoping to start a family. You can easily pair this stop with Punakha Dzong to experience the history, culture, and spiritual life of Punakha Valley all in one day.
👉 Related: Visit Punakha Dzong

The Legend Behind Chimi Lhakhang

The story of Chimi Lhakhang is mythical and captivating. It was built in the 15th century by Drukpa Kunley, famously called the Divine Madman or Mad Saint. Kunley was a bold and unconventional Buddhist saint, known for his humor, unorthodox teachings, and shocking but meaningful acts.

One of his most legendary feats happened at this site, where a demon had taken the form of a dog. According to local lore, Kunley captured the demon in the stupa and tamed it with his Flaming Thunderbolt of Wisdom, a phallic symbol believed to subdue evil. As he struck the demon, he shouted “Chi Mi,” meaning “no dog,” to command the demon to leave its canine form, which is how the temple got its name.

Later, in 1499, Kunley’s relative, the 14th Drukpa hierarch Ngawang Choegyel, officially built the monastery in his honor.

The Fertility Connection

Chimi Lhakhang is now closely associated with fertility and blessings. Couples hoping for children often come to receive a “wang” blessing from a resident monk. The ritual may involve tapping the head with a wooden phallus brought by Kunley from Tibet. Some women even walk around the temple three times carrying the wooden phallus as part of the ceremony.

Beyond fertility, phallic images serve as protective charms. You’ll see them:

Painted on walls
Carved into pillars
Displayed on homes, schools, and even shops

These are meant to ward off evil spirits and negative energy, reflecting local beliefs and customs.

Approaching the Temple

Though small compared to Bhutan’s grand dzongs, Chimi Lhakhang’s setting and atmosphere make it unforgettable. A short, dusty path lined with prayer flags leads up the hill. Near the top, a giant prayer wheel greets visitors, followed by a small black stupa, said to house the demon Kunley captured.

The main temple stands white with golden and brown medallions, elegantly perched on the hilltop. Inside, photography is prohibited, but you can admire:

A statue of Guru Rinpoche
A reclining figure of Drukpa Kunley

The space feels calm, sacred, and intimate, a rare glimpse into Bhutanese spiritual life.

What to See at Chimi Lhakhang

Giant Prayer Wheels: Spin them while walking around the hilltop as a devotional act.
Golden Roof and White Walls: Simple yet elegant design, with medallions adding charm.
Statues of Guru Rinpoche and Drukpa Kunley: Central figures connecting visitors to the temple’s spiritual and legendary stories.

The Souvenir Shop

Near the parking area, a small shop sells phallic-themed souvenirs, books, and trinkets. You’ll find items from a few inches to several feet, in bright colors like red or tiger print. Products range from keychains and doorknobs to porch posts and walking sticks, all inspired by the temple’s unique culture.

The Divine Madman and His Legacy

Drukpa Kunley (1455–1570), better known as the Divine Madman, wasn’t just legendary—he was a Buddhist teacher and social critic. Famous for his unconventional methods, he challenged societal norms while spreading Vajrayana Buddhist teachings. His playful and provocative acts, like subduing demons with his phallus, symbolized his way of confronting fear, hypocrisy, and ignorance.

Chimi Lhakhang stands as a living tribute to him. From the temple itself to the phallic symbols and ongoing rituals, the site reflects Kunley’s teachings: humor, spirituality, and practical wisdom woven into daily life.

Visiting Chimi Lhakhang Today

Visiting Chimi Lhakhang isn’t just about fertility; it’s a chance to dive into Bhutanese beliefs, folklore, and the lasting legacy of the Divine Madman. Walking the paths, spinning the prayer wheels, and taking in the temple’s hilltop setting gives you a real sense of Bhutanese spiritual life that feels both unique and memorable. If you want to see how Chimi Lhakhang fits into a complete Bhutan journey, check out our Bhutan Travel Hub for the full six-day itinerary and more highlights across the country.